Later the turban was eliminated, the bonnet shortened, and the color fixed to red.
Initially, the fez was a brimless red, white, or black bonnet over which a turban was wrapped (similar to a wrapped keffiyeh). It was popular especially during the later period of the Ottoman Empire and its use spread throughout the empire, and much of its popularity derives from this era. It is either of ancient Greek, Tunisian, Moroccan or Turkish origin.
Ottoman soldiers during the Greco-Turkish War (1897) The Turkish fez got its name from the Moroccan city of Fez, this is because it was the source of the crimson berry once used to dye the felt. Tarboosh is considered to be a Turkish word composed of two elements, ter "sweat" and pošu "a light turban cloth". The word tarboosh is thought to be a loanword from Persian: سر بوشش دادن (meaning "headdress") via the Turkish language, from Ottoman Turkish terpos, and is used mainly in the countries of the Levant (Syria, Lebanon, Palestine, and Jordan). The fez ( Turkish: fes, Ottoman Turkish: فس, romanized: fes), is also known as a tarboosh ( Arabic: طربوش, romanized: ṭarbūš, ), also spelt tarboush. It has also been adopted by various fraternal orders. It is still worn in parts of south Asia, the Middle East, North Africa, and in Cape Town, South Africa. The fez has been used as part of soldiers' uniforms in many armies and wars for centuries, including the Bahawalpur Regiment in Pakistan as late as the 1960s. The fez was subsequently outlawed in Turkey in 1925 as part of Atatürk's reforms. The intention was to replace the turban, which acted as a marker of identity and so divided rather than unified the population. In 1829, Mahmud issued new regulations mandating use of the fez by all civil and religious officials. The decision was inspired by the Ottoman naval command, who had previously returned from the Maghreb having embraced the style. In 1827, Mahmud II mandated the fez as a modern headdress for his new army, the Asakir-i Mansure-i Muhammediye.
The fez became a symbol of the Ottoman Empire in the early 19th century. The modern fez owes much of its popularity to the Ottoman era. The name "fez" refers to the Moroccan city of Fez, where the dye to color the hat was extracted from crimson berries. This article aims to demonstrate that clothing as a marker of changing Kurdish identity can be fully understood in relation to the identity debates in the late Ottoman Empire, and to the nationalist discourses developed in Turkey under the Kemalist regime and Syria under the French mandate.The fez ( Turkish: fes, Ottoman Turkish: فس, romanized: fes), also called tarboosh/ tarboush ( Arabic: طربوش, romanized: ṭarbūš, derived from Persian: سرپوش, romanized: sarpuš, lit.'cap'), is a felt headdress in the shape of a short cylindrical, truncated (peakless) hat, usually red, and sometimes with a black tassel attached to the top. The Kurdish elites' take on the clothing also presented revealing evidence for wider debates on clothing and national identity in the late Ottoman Empire and its post-World War I successor states such as Turkey and Syria. The Kurds' integration into a modernizing empire in the second half of the nineteenth century, the rising ethnic awareness among the Ottoman Kurdish elites since the late nineteenth century, and Kurdish nationalists' aspirations for an independent Kurdistan since the end of World War I was reflected in the Kurdish elites' changing preferences of clothing. This article looks at clothing and more specifically headgear as a marker for the evolution of Kurdish national identity within the contexts of the late Ottoman Empire and of post-Ottoman Turkey and Syria.
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